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Climbing Topos, Southern Thailand- Ao Loaliang

Climbing Topos | Climbing Loaliang
The Climbing here was pioneered by Trevor, the man who gave us the Keep, one of my favorite climbing spots in Thailand. The climbs here are an interesting mixture of roofs and some facy technical stuff. All in all very good. Thanks to Trevor, Steve, and others!

Climbing topos for Loaliang island

The Topos below have all been kindly provided by Steve. If there are any corrections please email us and we will change them. As there have not been that many people here the grades are only just being bedded down. There has been a bit of haggling and revision, and I think the grades below are pretty fair, certainly with a + of accuracy...

 

The Bay

The Bay Climbing Loaliang  

This is the first wall you come to walking down the beach, the closest wall to the tents.

1. Knee Deep*** 6b+
Start from anchor on left side of ledge.
Jude Spanker, Eric Ruderman

2. Need Deet** 6b+
Start from anchor on left side of ledge.
Trevor Massiah, Steve Findley

3. Something For Nothing*** 7a
Start from anchor on the middle of ledge.
Mike Weitzman

4. Johann** 6a+
Belay from ground.
John & Ann Arran

5. Chillin’ Like A Villain** 6a+
Belay from ground.
Mike Weitzman

 

Ocean Wall
Ocean Wall Climbing Topo

6. Lip Service** 7a+
On the right side of the first tufa. Follows lip to the right and then up and around hanging tufa to the arete. Backclean the first few draws to reduce rope drag.
Eric Ruderman, Trevor Massiah

7. Raarh*** 7b+
Shares the start with Lip Service.
Trevor Massiah, Eric Ruderman

8. Melting*** 7b+
Suman

9. Bangkok Coconut Mafia** 6c
Team Chaos

10. Crawling King Snake** 6c+
Two anchors here. If you just go to the first anchor it's an easy 6a. If you go all the way to the second anchor (you can do this with a 60m rope) then it's a 6c+
Team Chaos

11. Chasing Fish* 6a+
Trevor Massiah, Steve Findley

Climbing topo- top view wall loaliang12. Blood Meridian** 6b+
Team Chaos

13. All Right* 6b
Bristol Paul

14. X-site One* 6a+
X-site Team

15. X-site Two* 6a+
X-site Team

16. Captain Fat** 7a+, 6c
Trevor Massiah, Steve Findley

17. Liger*** 7a
Similar to The Lion King of Ton Sai beach,
but better.
Suman

The following 2 routes are on the top at the far right of Ocean Wall:

18. Monsoon** 6a, 6c+
Can be lead in one pitch. Can rappel to middle anchor, then to ground with one 60 meter rope.
Mike Weitzman, Trevor Massiah

19. Top View* 6a
X-site Team

 

Hollow Wall and Red Wall
Climbing Topo- Red Wall Loaliang

The following are on Hollow Wall:

20. Num Chai** 6b, 6b
Trevor, Loaliang, red wallTeam Chaos

21. Chaotic Tranquility** 6b, 6b+
Tash Smith, Ton

22. Fearsome Engine** 6a+, 6b+
Trevor Massiah, Dave Pickford

23. Hangin’ Arete** 7a+, 7b
Trevor Massiah, Dave Pickford

24. 50 Dollar Meat Wallet*** 7b+ (after first ascent) 8
Backclean first two draws.
Eric Ruderman, Marlon Campos 2006-03-10

25. The General*** 6c (after first ascent) 8
Shares the start and anchor with 50 Dollar Meat Wallet. Backclean first two draws.
Marlon Campos, Eric Ruderman 2006-03-10

26. Flying Snake* 6b, 7a
Very run out.
Dave Pickford

27. House Of The Rising Sun*** 6b, 6a, 6b
Most popular multipitch. Climb up the left ladder and move right. Fist anchor hanging belay, you could climb past it and belay from the large ledge of the second pitch. Third pitch is 33 meters long. From the top of the third pitch you can rappel to the beach, with two 60 meter ropes. The 4th pitch is solo through the slot in the ceiling of the cave. Ends up on top of the island in the most amazing jungle.
General Shamick, Nick, Nancy

The Following climbs are on the amazingly photogenic Red Wall:

28. Golden*** 6c
Best 6C in Thailand...
Trevor Massiah, Mike Weitzman

29. Pansies Need Chalk** 7a
Trevor Massiah, Steve Findley

30. Fools Gold*** 7b
Trevor Massiah

31. Napalm In The Morning* 5
Dave Pickford

32. Agent Orange* 5
Dave Pickford

 

Easter Wall
climbing topo- easter wall loaliang thailand

Get dropped off by a kayak. Two fixed lines up to belay ledge. Solo up on left rope.

33. Wild Side*** 6c+, 7a
Trevor Massiah

34. The Way Of The Sarge*** 7a
Trevor Massiah, Mike Weitzman

35. Viper Goes Free*** 6b (after first ascent) 11
The most exposed sea cliff climbing in Thailand on a fantastic wall. You can rappel the right rope to the beginning of the climb. Alternative link up to Wild Side.
Oskar Norberg, Marlon Campos, General Shamick 2006-03-10

King Climbing Laoliang
King on red wall