railay.com

[nathanmurphy]

Hi People,

I am going to Thailand for April and 1st week of may, some time will be spent in Ton-sai/Railey climbing but I do not really want to go purely bolt-clipping.

Is anyone heading out that way and fancies a week or so of Trad climbing routes up big sea stacks/walls (which would quite probably be climbing the some new routes and or finishing off to top-out DWS routes).

Ideally you can spend at least a week, are a competent Trad climber who can on-sight e2/3 or UK 5c without too much trouble.. and is not too afraid of taking the odd lob!

I'm based in London - so if we can meet for a pint it would be good.

I'm on: nathan att stratadigital dot co dot uk

Cheers,

Nathan

[nathanmurfie]

- im checking it frequently

[dan]

I'm afraid you are looking in the wrong place for trad...
The reason it's all bolted is 'cause there is not scope for placing pro..
You could try to trad up the DWS routes, but if you fall it would be sketchy- with little pro in you are gonna hit the water, and with all that gear attached you will sink...

Where there is potential to use trad, the rock is nasty and sharp- also too easy to climb-

Many people have brought trad racks, and few have used them, mostly they just get eroded and messed up by the climate. When new routes are set up they are bolted on lead, maybe with the use of skyhooks and slings. The most usefull bit of trad gear you could bring is lots of slings...

Cheers
Dan

[nathanmurfie]

Hi Dan,

I have been before a couple of times, pro didn't seem tooo bad depending on where - agreed falls could be longish but again depends on what your climbing I guess.

Agreed, bottom sections of routes with their over hangs are not suitable - but further up it gets a bit more pockety and protectable as far as i can remember!

Thanks for heads up on slings.

n

[dan]

Sorry- just wanted to give you a heads up in case you had not been before!
Sounds like a good adventure-
Enjoy
Dan

[Guest]

No problem - thanks for your thoughts